Once in a Full Moon

We made sure to reach the bus terminus before the Sun sets. It is a Full Moon Day and the Chennai Mofussil Bus Terminus, one of the largest bus terminus in Asia, was busy as usual. The buses were queuing for their turn to take the people to their respective destinations. Since more people were heading to Tiruvanamaali, we had to follow a queue to ensure our seats on the bus. Before boarding the bus we had to buy tokens each before buying the bus ticket, Rs. 62/-.

I was accompanied by my uncle and we had to sit apart because of the seating arrangements as it was in the token. I got the window seat with the seating capacity for two more persons. Then, a family of four came, a mother, her two children and her sister. Four persons had to sit in two seats! They seemed to be village people. They adjusted themselves in their seats ensuring my own space without any uncomfortable. They were friendly as they did not disturb me or give any uneasiness at all.

The bus started to move at 2.30 pm. It is about 180 kilometers of journey to Tiruvanamaali, which seemed a long journey in a bus. I had to adjust myself many times that I hardly travel by bus for long distances. The bus went through Tambaram, Melmaruvathur, Tindivanam and Gingee. The five hours of journey got us to Tiruvanamaali at 7.30 pm. The buses were lined up one by one at the bus stand and thousands of people were getting down. The bus stand was again 2 kilometers away from the temple from where we have to start our Girivalam.

Girivalam

It is the custom for the people to walk around the hill which is called Girivalam. ‘Giri’ means mountain and ‘valam’ means walk. Every month on a full moon day (rather night), millions of people head towards Tiruvanamaali to walk around the hill, which is said to have gone through different forms in different ‘Yugam’, like Volcano, Gold and now it is Stone form.

Since the walking requires more stamina to keep going and it would be late after finishing the walk, we decided to have our supper before in hand. There were many stalls especially food stalls along the road either side doing their business briskly. We ordered ‘idli’ in one of the small huts (hotel) and ate about 6 idlis! which was more than what I really eat usually; each for Rs. 2.50 cost of Rs. 15/- each worth the taste and the quality. After idli, we had milk and tea respectively. The milk was also so tasteful with the aroma of cardamom.

There are many Footwear Centers (called themselves so) to keep your footwear safe while you go for Girivalam. Everyone should walk only with their barefoot. Some, not so devoted, wore footwear especially foreigners to walk. Some of them were riding hired bicycles. To my surprise, I could see so much devoted foreigners were walking on their barefoot so committed to the divine and the belief.

Lingams

Our way of Girivalm started at 8.00 pm with a sign board indicating the 14 kilometers of walk and ‘Indra Lingam’ is one of the first of 8 Lingams situated at different directions on the way. Other Lingums are Agni Lingam, Yema Lingam, Niruthi Lingam, Varuna Lingam, Vayu Lingam, Kubera Lingam and Esanya Lingam and many small temples, Ashrams were seen along the way. There were lots of small temporary petty shops selling everything that people may buy. At some places, people were provided ‘Annathanam’ by some Ashrams and common people. There are a lot of people sitting along the way and asking for things for their livelihood. Many of them were in their sage dress with long beard, looked like Sadhus.

The Great Mountain

We walked around the mountain which spread over all the way. The holy mountain is to be greatly admired. Viewing the hill all along the way and worshiping the greatness of the creation is a great experience. One of the attractions for me was Eduku Pillayar (pronounce ‘E’ as e, ‘du’ as do and ‘ku’ as koo), it was a small gap through which people go one by one in a long queue. People were moving on the road with no entry for vehicles; uttering ‘Namashivaya’. A sign board at every half a kilometer indicating the remaining kilometers to walk. Though my legs were paining while nearing the completion of the Girivalam, I enjoyed it and felt great.

Life-time Luck

We finished the walk just before it became New Year 2010. The crackers were burst everywhere to welcome the New Year. It is a life-time opportunity for everyone and only those can get a chance to come here, who are lucky and have done enough good things in their life. It is said that going around the hill destroys the ‘karma’ of ten million births. Girivalam not only gives us good health but also peace of mind with the medicinal plants over the mountain. It is for everyone to treat our fatigued souls.

TRAVEL INFORMATION

There are so many buses go to Tiruvanamaali from Chennai. Board at Chennai Mofussil Bus Terminus (CMBT). It takes about 5 hours to reach. If your aim for only Girivalam, you can return at once and get buses even after 12.00 midnight Bus fare costs Rs. 62/-. You can go for Girivalam even in the early morning. Choosing any time apart from early morning, evening and night is not advisable as it it very hot to walk on bare foot and you'll get tired in the heat.

Accommodation

If you want to stay, there are Ashrams available apart from budgeted hotels to luxury.

Name of the Book: The Smile of Murugan – A South Indian Journey

Author:  Michael Wood

About Author: Michael Wood is a journalist, broadcaster and film-maker and so popular for his popular BBC television series and the accompanying books, ‘In the footsteps of Alexander’ and ‘Conquistadors’.

Nature of the Book:  Travel

About the Book: The book was written and published in 1995 and it’s all about Michael’s journey to South India, Tamil Nadu.  The Author has written his experiences of visiting various temples in Tamil Nadu.  The book contains the journey from Madras to Chidambaram and other surrounding districts of the state such as Rameshwaram and Tiruchendur.  He describes Tamil Nadu was in its Nineties and its transformation from traditional to modern culture in the later years.  The books is more of a guide in its nature and suitable for those who wants to travel and visit the temples in Tamil Nadu.   Though the Author talks about the situations in the period of ‘90s I feel the book still has relevance as the temples don’t make big differences over period of time.  Everyone should visit these temples irrespective of their religions as any culture boasts its traditions and art talents.  Have a blessed journey! 

On the Bank of Cauvery

I was on my way to Sri Rangam, situated on the bank of Cauvery River which flows from the state of Karnataka finally to sink in the Bay of Bengal. Srirangam is just a few kilometers away from Trichy, Tamil Nadu. I was accompanied by my friend who was on his to Madurai. We boarded into the Vaigai Express at the Egmore Railway Station. The Egmore Railway Station is the hub for travelling to South Tamil Nadu. Many trains are operated from here to visit various places of the south. It was built in the British period, painted in red, still looking good.

W, M, A?!

We’d reserved the tickets earlier so we had no urgency to rush into the station. But the train arrived only half an hour late. By the time the station was filled with co-passengers. Some of them were in black dress going to Sabarimalai in Kerala. Many devotees go Sabarimalai to worship God Iyyapan every year in December – January. They have to keep fasting for a month before to worship the ‘Magara Jothi’. We were allocated corner seats next to the door. The seats arrangement for three persons in a row, but only two can sit comfortably. It is hard to sit on the corner seat. Though we found to sit uncomfortably, we sat opposite to each other for a better conversation. I could see a number board indicating the letters ‘W’, ‘M’, ‘A’. I was thinking what it meant. I couldn’t get it right.

The train departed at 1.00 pm instead of 12.30 pm. It was moving slowly until we reached Tambaram. After reaching Tambaram, The train woke up and moved a little fast. Then the vendors in the train coming one by one taking variety of foods, Sambar Saatham (Dal Rice), Puli Saatham (Tamarind Rice), Thayir Saatham (Curd Rice), Chappatis, Pooris, Vadai along with Coffee and Tea, etc. That made us to be hungry. We had taken lunch from home itself. I had taken Lemon Rice and my friend had taken Tamarind Rice with Chutey. The train in middle took rest at the Melmaruvathur Railway Station, where there is a temple dedicated to Hindu Goddess Adhiparasakthi. The month of December is dedicated for worshipping the Goddess. Usually the train doesn’t make a stop here. Since, the Railway Department wanted to cash in on the huge pilgrims visit and do a needful; it had made an arrangement to stop some trains running through this way. Whatever it could be, it was convenient for the devotees that they could find it comfortable travelling by train. By the time I found the abbreviations for ‘W’ as Window seat, ‘M’ as Middle seat, still had no clue about ‘A’. It became difficult to sit for long time especially on the corner seat. And the persons sharing the seat with me in the row didn’t seem to be concerned about my uneasiness. I had to adjust till I reached Trichy. Yeah! I finally found the abbreviation for ‘A’ may be, intentionally, as “Adjusted seat”.

TRICHY JUNCTION

On the way, the train was passing over many stations, Tindivanam, Villupuram and Ariyalur. I expected that the train would stop at Sri Rangam station where I had to alight but the train didn’t stop and continued only to reach Trichy Junction. The Gopuram of Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple was visible some years before, now the growth of the city hided the vision.

It was my cousin waiting at the Trichy Railway Station to receive me. With the heavy bag I had, he was very useful to give me an extra hand. The train reached the station at 7.30 pm. My friend who accompanied me in the train had to continue to reach Madurai to attend a family marriage function. So, I said sent him off and walked out of the station.

I revisited Trichy after about 15 years. The city was unidentifiable with many changes. I could remember some of the places that I had to look for. I stayed at my uncle’s home.

SRI RANGANATHASWAMY TEMPLE

The next day I planned to go to Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple. It is the abode of Lord Sri Vishnu whose idol was here in sleeping position. The temple’s Gopuram, which is the main entrance, is one of the largest Gopuram in the country. It is said that from the top one can see the country Sri Lanka. As it was December, it was crowded and I had to follow a long queue. Apart from the main Gopuram there are 21 Gopurams are situated at this land which is spread over about 60 hectares. It may take hours to see all the places here. The temple has story that related to Rock Fort Temple. The God Ganesha is the reason for the establishment of this temple, who placed the idol of Sri Vishnu near the bank of Cauvery and went up the rock and sat there itself which was now worshiped as Vinayagar Temple.

Information: Visiting time: Morning 6.00 am to 1.00 pm – Evening 3.00 pm to 9.00 pm

SRI JAMBUKESHWARAR TEMPLE

In the evening, I went to Sri Jambukeshwarar Temple which is dedicatd to Lord Shiva and Parvathi situated just near to the Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple. The place is called Thiruvanaikoil. It is also one of the old temples in the country. The water is flowing over the Lingum, I’m not aware from where it is coming. If anybody knows, please let me. The temple was so calm and many people do Meditation here. With the devotional songs, the place is so good to soothe our mind.

Information: Visiting time: Morning 6.00 am to 1.00 pm – Evening 3.00 pm to 9.00 pm

TRAVEL INFORMATION

Trains:

From Chennai Egmore there are 3 trains which go to Trichy.
Vaigai Express – departs at 12.30 pm – Fare Rs.100/- (doesn’t stop at Sri Rangam)
Pallavan Express – departs at 3.00 pm – Fare Rs.100/- (stops at Sri Rangam)
Rock Fort Express – departs at 9.40 pm – Fare Rs. 140/-

Buses:

There are so many buses from Chennai – Koyambedu Bus Terminus to Trichy for every 10 minutes. Travel time is about 7-8 hours and the fare is about Rs. 130/-

Air:

Trichy has an Airport for domestic purpose and it is proposed to make it International Airport

Accomodation:

There are many hotels available here for all standards of people from budget to luxury.

Location:

To find the location, click the tag below ‘Location’.

Note: Please check the exact times and rates before making any conclusion, it may vary slightly.

Clouds over the Head

We were wakened up so early. I couldn’t open my eyes. I was so exhausted. We had alighted at the Tirupur railway station only at about 10 o’clock in the last night after nine hours of journey from Chennai. Tirupur is in Coimbatore district, South Tamil Nadu. I couldn’t sleep well in the night because of tiredness. But I got to be ready to catch a bus to attend a wedding ceremony in Madurai. It was still dark and so cool. The dew was hiding the houses nearby. The street lights were glowing through the dew. I brushed my teeth without any effort as my hands were shivering well enough to clean them. The water was so cold and I could take only hot bath. The call-taxi had come by the time we were all ready. The driver seemed as he must have just got up. I was seated in the front with a hope that he drive well. He had completed his last trip only at 11 o’clock last night. While on the way to bus stand, I could see people were walking and running to burn their fat even in that cold morning. Some of them were in their sweaters hoping to sweat out! Otherwise the roads looked desert except a few vehicles were crisscrossing the signals at a junction with four loads.

We reached at the bus stand at 5 o’clock. The bus stand was so busy even at that early morning. People were moving here and there. After finalizing, we settled in a bus to Madurai which was to start by 5.30. The bus was not crowd with lot of seats were still unoccupied and that confused me to choose the right one. I was accompanied by my mom, aunt, younger sister and cousin. They got their seats and left me to sit alone. I found a window seat to place myself as I liked to watch the things that moving in the opposite direction to the bus. But my assumption was wrong. The bus started moving slowly to reach the main road. Soon after the bus reached the main road and started picking up the speed, I started shivering as the cold wind blowing over my face and body heavily. I tried to close the window door but it was so hard to shut down, I wondered why! I couldn’t bear it any more. So I decided to move to any other seat and found one. The guy who was sitting near the window started sleeping even it was winding cool. Since I was tired without sleep I also decided to sleep. But I could hardly close my eyes without seeing the things on the road.

After passing some kilometers, the bus was moving towards Ottanchatiram which was situated near Palani, where one of the six abodes of God Murugan is situated. Ottanchatiram is some kilometers away from Madurai. It was more of a village; thatched houses, greenery fields, cattle wandering around the fields, some primary schools with the bells yet to ring and of course a local court (Panchayath) with a banyan tree rooted again in to the earth from where it’d come, showing the truth. Though I was not sitting near the window I could see the scenery on the way. There were hills along the road on both the side firmly standing and stopping the movement of the clouds. The clouds were so near. It could be just around 30 feet over the head. That was the first time I saw clouds so near. If you can climb the hill, you can certainly touch them. The white clouds were resisting movement any further. With the snow falling over the hills, the atmosphere was marvelous to see. The hills were not too height. There were green trees and grass all over it. Though the sun was hiding, its thin rays were enough to make the atmosphere glow; feeding the nature.

As the bus was nearing Ottanchatiram, I could see a mother of hills. The bus was moving towards it. The mother hill was so stronger than her children hills. It seemed to be a few kilometers away to reach there. The bus was moving and moving, still we couldn’t reach it. I was longing to see its top. It was possible only after some more minutes. It was a huge hill (maybe I’m exclaiming it more as it was the first time I saw a huge hill near). Near the hill, there were more shops; it was a hub for the people in the nearby villages. The place was so busy just like metros except their tension. There was a bus stand. The bus stopped there to take some more people. Now, the bus was so crowded with school going children, working people and some passersby. Some were lifting up luggage on the top. The conductor became busy to ensure that all have tickets. The bus started moving right opposite direction to the hill so I couldn’t see it again. On the way, I saw a ‘Sandhai’, a market where the people of nearby villages gather to sell or buy or just barter the things they want right from cattle to grains. I saw many cattle in that ‘Sandhai’. Before I realize the things happened in the market, the bus moved fast finally to reach Madurai. I have left the sights I enjoyed seeing on the way and taken its memories and penned them into words.